The valley of the Kali Gandaki, the Black River, is the deepest valley on earth, cut into the Himalayas between Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas. It now has a rough jeep-road, tractors and busses, but trekkers can avoid the dusty road by taking parallel hiking trails on the other side of the valley.
Near Gaza we wanted to stay for two nights to get a chance to see the pheasants there.
I arranged a guide to take us into the mountains at five o'clock in the morning. It was supposed to be a hard climb of four hours.
Our guide Ram woke me a little before five. It was raining and there was a dense fog. "In the mountains it is worse", he said. We wanted to sleep on into the rainy morning but shortly afterwards buiding works started right outside our door. Some men began to hammer persistently and did not stop before we had left this place quite desperatly after breakfast. But we stole a handful of beans that were drying under the verandah and have now planted them in our garden.
|Hashish grows wild|
|Our porter-guide and friend, Ram.|
|An expert basket maker|
|Some stretches of the raod look perilious and there are many accidents.|
|We narrowly escaped a rockfall under this slope|
|Our Bungalow in Dhaulagiri Lodge in Tatopani.|
|Between Jomsom and Kalopani we took a bus but we later agreed that we like hiking better.|